Roma/Firenze/Montaione 
Day Five:
Sunday September 27, 2015

Arrivederci Roma

Sad to say goodbye to our lovely apartment and even sadder to bid farewell to the amazing city of Rome. Clearly four days was insufficient time to experience all this amazing city has to offer. We have no choice but to return.

Took a cab to the train station, a short ride away, and validated our Euro rail passes. Back in Canada we had bought a five day pass, good for any five days of travel within a thirty day period.  We chose to upgrade to the fast train to Florence for 10 Euro more per person, a trip of one hour and ten minutes instead of over three hours.

The four of us struggled to decipher the Italian words flashing on the giant overhead screens, trying to decide platform our train was leaving from. Convinced that we had it figured out, we stood waiting on platform 5, for a train that the LED signs informed us would be twenty minutes late, only to discover, many minutes later, that we were on the wrong platform. Our train was leaving from the next platform over, and was already loaded ready to leave. After a frantic run, dragging our suitcases behind us and dodging passengers over rough pathways, we managed to board the train. 

A note to would be train passengers. Get there early. When you arrive as the train is about to leave the station, all the spots for luggage are already taken. It was a bit of a struggle to find a spot to store our bags but still we managed, and made it to our seats before the train departed.

Comfortable seats and a great view out of the window made the trip a breeze. I was surprised at the speed the train travelled, especially uphill. The overhead screen announced that we were travelling at 248 km per hour! 

The trip from Rome to Venice involved a great deal of uphill climbing through numerous tunnels. My popping ears paid testament to the elevation. The scenic beauty rolling past my window was a visual delight, or at least what I could see of it at the speed we were travelling. lol

Firenze

We arrived at the Santa Maria Novella train station, in the centre of the old city. A short walk took us to the garage where our rental car awaited.

Tim upgraded us to a Volkswagen Passat, in an attempt to accommodate all of our luggage. The cars in Italy, in most of Europe for that matter, are much smaller than what we are accustomed to in North America. It was a good decision as this upgraded car came with a GPS, an addition which can be quite expensive.

We did not linger in Firenze, hoping to get to our final destination of Montaione before nightfall. A good decision as the hour long trip was a little intense.

If you plan on driving in Tuscany, please, get a GPS. The roads are narrow, winding, and unpredictable.

 Montaione

Our trip to Montaione involved a few too many hairpin turns and switchbacks for my comfort. Our trusty GPS got us safely to our town, which was nestled on top of a hill surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. Stunningly beautiful, if a bit isolated. The town of 4000 personne was surprisingly sophisticated with some lovely shops displaying leather products, absolutely gorgeous clothing, and of course, the requisite wine shops and cafes.

Borgo La Casccia

Our apartment at Borgo La Casaccia, Via della Rocche, Montaione, was wonderful. Francesco Pellegrini, our host and the owner of the property, met us as we arrived just as the sun was setting. We had rented a lovely two bedroom apartment in a complex that included 12 separate apartments. At just under 700 Euro for our 10 day stay, it was a fabulous deal.

 
Our view as the sun was setting. Our apartment faces the "Panoramic Terrace where we have the perfect spot to view the setting sun each evening.

Our apartment

Our apartment consists of two large bedrooms, a bathroom, kitchen, eating area and small sitting room, a beautiful outside eating area with a spectacular view, two pools, a multilayered terrace, and a wine cellar with wine for purchase. Stunning.

We stopped at the local grocery store and picked up supplies for dinner. Vino, insalata, and of course, pasta. Whipped up a tasty supper in no time, the kitchen was well supplied with all cooking utensils, but no condiments. If you are renting a place through VRBO or some other agency, be prepared to pick up salt and pepper, oil and vinegar, butter and other essentials at a local market before heading home to cook. 

Our bedroom was lovely and cool, a breeze blowing in from the the open window kept the room at the perfect temperature for sleeping. But just in case, I had the fan provided by our host plugged in at the ready, right by my side of the bed. Tim had a wool blanket on his side.

Rome: 
Day Four: 
Saturday September 26th, 2015

Spanish Steps, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain 

The blazing sun shining in our bedroom window announced a perfect day for a double decker, 'HOP ON HOP OFF'  tour of the city. We chose the Green Line Tours because of the stop at the Pantheon, not included with other options. At 18 Euro for a full day of sight seeing, it was good value.
You can find someone selling tickets for this tour and others at almost every street corner.

With ten stops at the city's most famous locations, we had lots to choose from. We decided on the Spanish Steps, the Pantheon, and the still under restoration, Trevi Fountain.

With my water bottle and trusty fan in hand, I prepared for yet another day of overwhelming sights.

 

We had more than a little trouble navigating the confusing labyrinth of streets to find our way, first to the Trevi Fountain, later to the Pantheon, and finally to the very crowded Spanish Steps. Along our way we serendipitously (is that a word?) came across the Piazza Nuovo and the stunning fountain at its centre.

While perhaps not as impressive as the Trevi Fountain, it was still beautiful and worth a few pictures. The heat of the day had me leaning precariously towards the inviting water until sadly, my husband reached over pulled me back.  Appeased somewhat by the promise of gelato later in the day, I reluctantly left the allure of the turquoise coolness.

Walking down narrow cobblestone streets, fully prepared to find the Pantheon around the next corner,

the sight of this extraordinary building still managed to take my breath away.

The Pantheon

Taking a moment to rest in the shade of one of the colossal columns at the entrance.

The Trevi Fountain

Our next stop was the Trevi Fountain, a stunning beauty undergoing restoration. On one side there was a small pool of water still available for coin tossing. 

The 1954 Romantic comedy, THREE COINS IN THE FOUNTAIN, gave popularity to an old tradition in which it was said that a thirst quenching drink of water from the Trevi Fountain would ensure that the person who drank the water would have good fortune and a fast return to Rome, the Eternal City. This has evolved over time to the present tradition of standing with your back to the fountain, and tossing a coin over your left shoulder, assuring the coin tosser a timely return trip to Roma. 

Naturally I tossed my coin. It is imperative that I come back to Rome. Four days was an impossible length of time to explore all that this extraordinary city has to offer.

The Spanish Steps

Built to link the long, triangular Spanish square (Piazza di Spagna) to the Trinita die Monti church, the Spanish steps have the honour of being the widest steps in Europe. 

In the spring time they are resplendently lined with brilliant azaleas, and always they are a spot for people to gather and just hang out. 

                                                                                                                                                                           At the foot of 135 steps, (and yes, I climbed everyone of them, even in the heat of the day; my trusty fan was most appreciated) is the Barcaccia Fountain, created by Pietro Bernini and his son, Gian Lorenzo.

In the Piazza di Spagna, to the right of the foot of the steps, you can find the house where John Keats, the famous English poet, lived, and died in 1821. It is now a museum dedicated to his memory.

We stopped for a quick bite of lunch at a lovely street side cafe. I chose a deliciously vibrant insalta mista with the obligatory glass of white wine. No pasta.

Of course, our dinner menu will likely include more of that wheat based delight, in one of the hundreds of different forms found here. 

Grocery stores have rows and rows dedicated to pasta, most forms I have never heard of. Perhaps my personal challenge should be to taste every one of them?

In a glorious display of power, our evening skies erupted in cascades of crimson, burnt umber, ochre, and brilliant gold. A fitting end to our stay in this sensuously stunning ancient city .

To quote my dear friend Chris Delaney, "Appropriate that the house of the Sunset Designer is in the foreground."

Arrivederci Roma